What are Kalagas?

Kalagas are intricately embroidered tapestries from Burma and an artform that has been around for over 150 years. However, some of the techniques used to create these pieces, such as adorning textiles with gold thread and jewels – known as "shwe-chi-doe" – have been around for over 1,000 years. The word 'kalaga' directly translates directly as "curtain" and they were originally made for royal palaces in Mandalay, Burma. Most kalagas now are still made in Myanmar (formerly Burma), but traded in neighbouring Thailand.

They reflect the design styles found in the palace and pagodas of the time. The designs often feature art seen on temple walls, motifs that are still popular today. That’s why it’s common to think of kalaga art as being much older, as the subjects often come from ancient stories and legends.

What Themes and Stories Do Kalagas Portray?

Quite often, the Buddhist Jataka tales are depicted; "Jataka" means "since birth", and these tales recount Buddha’s previous lives. It’s said that just before Buddha reached nirvana, he had a flashback of all his past lives, which helped him understand the world’s true nature. He often shared these stories to explain the concept of karma.

However, Burma's history is a blend of Buddhist and Hindu influences due to natural migration across the Nepalese border, but more specifically, the Hindu stories became very popular with the Burmese royal court due to a large population of Thai performers who were bought over after the conquest of Ayutthaya in 1767. They often depicted the Ramayana tales, about King Rama’s quest to rescue his kidnapped wife, Sita. With similar moral undertones to the Jataka, the Ramayana teaches important life lessons about good deeds, helping others, and standing by your loved ones.

Therefore you can often see both Buddhist and Hindu symbolism in kalagas. Some kalagas won't directly tell the Jataka and Ramayana stories, but nearly all have religious or Burmese cultural symbols woven into the textile.

Here are some common depictions and their symbolism to Hindu and Buddhist faith:

• Horse
  • Buddhism - associated with 'Windhorse prayer flags' The Windhorse is said to carry prayers on the wind but horses also represent the quest for enlightenment
  • Hinduism - knowledge, wisdom, perseverance
• Elephants
  • Buddhism - White elephants represent the penultimate incarnation of Gautama Buddha, along with purity, auspiciousness
  • Hinduism - divinity, prosperity, and power
• Hintha/Hamsa Bird
  • Buddhism - wisdom, purity, good character
  • Hinduism - mount of the deities Brahma, Gayatri, Saraswati, and Vishvakarma
• Peacock
  • Buddhism - purity, acceptance, openness, enlightenment
  • Hinduism - wealth, prosperity, beauty, and bliss. It is also the mount of several deities
• Dragon
  • Buddhism - protection, transformation and wisdom
• Lion
  • Buddhism - the birth of Buddha
  • Hinduism - bravery, strength, courage, ferociousness
• Humans
  • 'human' figures represent Buddha, Rama, warriors, or other deities.
• Nats
  
  • Burmese folk religion - The Nats are god-like spirits which were believed to be humans that were deified after death or spirits of nature, spirits of water, or trees, for example.

What Materials Are Used and How Are They Made?

The kalagas we see today are influenced by many factors, including the materials available at the time. For example, the introduction of sequins, came from Thailand after the conquest of Ayutthaya in 1767. Later, materials used to create kalagas – like wool, glass, beads, and sequins – became readily available through trade with British merchants. As kalagas grew in popularity, artists could easily get their hands on these materials to meet demand.

Kalagas are still crafted in the traditional way, although today, higher-quality materials such as rust-resistant sequins and durable backing cloths are used. The process starts with stretching a backing cloth on a frame, followed by cutting fabric into the shapes of figures that will be included in the design. These figures are then decorated and attached to the backing, with cotton or a similar material used to raise them, giving the kalaga a quilted look. The final touch is filling in the background, often with swirling patterns of beads and sequins that are a signature feature of this beautiful art form.

How to Display a Kalaga

If you’re lucky enough to have a kalaga – whether you picked one up during your travels or have purchased one from us – there are a few ways to display it that will show it off beautifully. It is not traditional to frame a kalaga or to cover it with glass or plastic, as it diminishes the shine and sparkle of the sequins and metallic threads, but it is becoming more common as people look to protect them. Alternatively, people quite often hang it on a curtain rod by creating a loop with the existing fabric or attaching a new loop to the back.

A Word of Caution

While the kalaga art form is only about 150 years old, you might come across some pieces that are being sold as antiques. The authenticity of these can be questionable, as the materials used to make kalagas in the past weren’t exactly built to last. Some sellers may deliberately distress the tapestries to make them appear older, hoping to fetch a higher price. So, be mindful and make sure you’re buying from a reputable source!

We have classed our kalagas as ‘vintage’ as we know them to be at least 30 years old. Please do always contact us directly if you have any questions about a specific piece.