What Are Huipiles?

Originating from the word 'huipilli' which translates as 'something that covers', huipiles are a traditional tunic worn by indigenous women of Central and South America. Originally they were only worn for ceremonial events but later became an everyday item of clothing, with the more decorative designs now reserved for ceremonies such as weddings and burials.

Huipiles are so much more than just a blouse-like garment! They represent strong cultural heritage with traditional symbolism often being incorporated into the vibrant and rich designs. Even the colours have meanings! The variety of these designs is simply astounding, and each huipil is a one-of-a-kind.

How Are Huipiles Made?

Firstly, the yarns (typically cotton or wool) are dyed using natural materials. Certain plants give certain colours, for example the hibiscus flowers offers a pink hue, carrots (unsurprisingly!) turn the yarn orange, quilete or quelite herbs give a green colour, and bark from avocado trees dyes the yarn beige.

The general structure is that of two or three rectangular panels woven from cotton or wool. Each panel is typically made using a traditional 'back-strap' loom, which is tied around the waist of the weaver. The panels are stitched together with the use of ribbon or fabric threads, and are then decorated with colourful designs. Additional decoration in the way of applique or embroidery can also be added, and results in some truly stunning textiles!

Using back-strap looms is a traditional practice which has been taught from generation to generation, reserving the cultural heritage. Using this method means one huipil could take two to three months to complete, sometimes longer depending on the intricacy of the design!&;

Regional Diversity

Each village has its own distinct style, using colours and motifs to distinguish themselves from their neighbours. When dealing with vintage huipiles this definitely helps in identifying where they originate from! It also offers a fascinating insight into the individuality and diversity of the country.

As mentioned before, the colours themselves have meanings:

• Blue: Sky and water
• Red: Sunrise, daytime, energy and power
• Black: Sunset, nighttime, death, war, and recuperation
• White: Air, spirituality, and hope
• Yellow: Sun and corn
• Green: Plant life and royalty

Motifs also have an important role to play:

• Stars: important because astrology was central to the Mayan belief system.
• Diamonds: symbolises the four corners of the universe or the sun’s path through the sky. Although depending on what figures are surrounding the diamonds, they can also represent town squares or the plates used to serve tamales.
• Zigzags: can represent a variety of things, such as mountains, volcanoes, the ups and downs of life, or serpents.
• Trees: symbolise the tree of life, or in general the strong relationship Guatemalans have with nature.
• Human figures holding hands: can be interpreted as communal solidarity, or a couple being united in a marriage.
• Two-headed birds (kot or kab-awil): generally symbolises dualities such as looking both into the future and the past, at good and evil, or up to the sky and down to the earth.
• Turkeys: Traditionally a groom's parents offer a turkey to the bride's parents on their wedding day. Within the textiles a living turkey has its neck facing forwards whereas a dead turkey has its neck bent backwards.

Huipil Examples:

Chajul is a Ixil speaking village in the rural highlands. It specialises in weaving and basket making, and the women are often seen wearing red or white huipiles decorated with colourful figures of animals, especially birds, in a bold, angular style.

San Antonio Aguas Calientes artists have a unique style of weaving, crafting a very fine brocade featuring birds and flowers. Blues and greens are commonly used and the design is featured on both the front and back of the huipil.

Nebaj huipiles can be easily identifiable due to their strong geometric style, and are thought to be the most tribal of all Guatemalan huipiles. The incorporation of birds and animals often look like hieroglyphics due to their highly stylised interpretation.

Are huipiles still worn today?

Very much so! In many areas of Guatemala and Mexico, the huipil remains a very common women's clothing item. A visit to the traditional market at Chichicastenango for example would show the wide diversity of these garments as various villages come together for market day. Outside of these areas, they are often displayed on the wall using a piece of doweling through the shoulders. They make striking art pieces and are a wonderful cultural item to begin collecting!